Fiji...
When you find yourself daydreaming about relaxing on a tropical island, the smell of hibiscus flowers floating through the warm air, your feet sinking into powdery white sand while bright blue starfish glisten in the turquoise shallows, that’s Fiji! It’s also a land of rainforests, waterfalls and lush interior highlands. Fijians are incredibly friendly and the pace of life works on ‘Fiji Time’, meaning probably late, maybe never!
Fiji’s a very popular holiday destination with visitors from nearby New Zealand and Australia but it’s also well trodden by those from further afield. We lived in the capital city, Suva, before we moved to Qatar. As a holiday-maker, you’re probably looking for the rest and relaxation of a beach break, but don’t be too quick to overlook a stay in Suva City. Nestled on the East side of Fiji’s largest island, Viti Levu, it does get a lot more rain than the tourist capital of Nadi, four hours drive to the West, but it’s great to experience how a laid back South Pacific city in the sun operates and how Fijians live and work outside of the usual tourist trail.
A visit to the Fiji Museum is a must; it’s fascinating to see so many relics of the country’s indigenous cultural history. The vibrant municipal market, bursting with tropical fruit and veg, is definitely worth a trip too. The handicraft centre is the place to go for souvenirs, and if you want a cheap, delicious lunch, don’t miss the opportunity to eat a roti parcel or two at Singh’s Curry House!
When we were living there, the Grand Pacific Hotel, on the waterfront in the city centre, stood sadly as a dilapidated shadow of it’s former splendour. However, it’s since been beautifully restored and, by all accounts, is a wonderful place to stay to make the most of Suva’s attractions. Within walking distance of all major site-seeing, you’ll find yourself strolling past other impressive British colonial buildings interspersed with more contemporary architecture.
Thirty minutes drive outside the city centre, and just ten minutes from our house, is Colo-i-Suva Forestry Park. We frequently used to take the children for walks through the waterfall trail, which winds its way over little rickety wooden bridges and stepping-stones through the streams. It’s a magical haven where you’re surrounded by the relaxing sounds of water and beautiful bird song. You can stop at any number of pools for a swim and picnic, and there’s nothing quite so invigorating as standing directly under the ceaseless pounding of fresh falling water. The bottom pool has a rope swing that's a source of endless fun and is loved by kids and adults alike. In my opinion, you can’t visit Suva without paying a visit to this beautiful place.
If you’re looking for an island escape close to Suva, Toberua Resort ticked all our boxes. Offering just a few spacious bures (traditional thatched cabins), it’s an exquisite, tiny island indulging you with everything you’d expect from a tranquil tropical retreat. Situated outside of Suva’s rain belt, you can be assured of sunny days, crystal clear water and mouth-wateringly good food.
Forty five minutes to the west of Suva lies a little residential and commercial enclave called Pacific Harbour. If you'd like to see Suva but don’t want to stay in the city, it’s worth considering a hotel here. Boasting an Arts Village and a number of little shops, you can make the most of the seafront while still being within day-trip distance of the city. The Uprising is a popular budget-friendly resort providing bures on a beautiful, hammock strewn stretch of beach. The Pearl Resort, a short walk along the shore, is a glossier choice, with contemporary décor and sleek designs.
The Coral Coast is an expanse of beachfront between Pacific Harbour and Nadi. There are some wonderful resorts here, like the Warwick, offering superb accommodation and sublime food. I know many families who regularly return after enjoying exceptional holiday experiences. However, the beaches definitely don’t come close to the dazzling beauty that you’ll find out on the islands. The only one that makes me gasp out loud is the immaculate white sand beach at Natadola, close to Nadi, where there’s an Intercontinental hotel. So if your intention is to head from Nadi airport towards Suva, it’s definitely worth stopping here on your way.
If you plan to land in Nadi and head out to the Western islands, the boats generally leave from the marina on Denarau Island, which is separated from the mainland by a causeway. Here you’ll find multiple resorts, a golf course, restaurants and shops, all geared towards tourists. Depending on your boat departure time, you’ll probably need to stay overnight, and, even if you don’t, it’s definitely worth spending some time here. Again, the beaches aren’t the best, but there’s a brilliant holiday ‘feel’ to the place. Our favourite hotel was the Sofitel, mainly because it has a waterslide, which the kids loved. The rooms are well appointed with standard contemporary decor and the food is impeccable.
The Mamanucas are the closest island group to Nadi, and here you’ll find the picture postcard images of your holiday dreams. There are so many islands to choose from, but for a family with kids, we found Treasure Island hard to beat. It offers superb value accommodation with pristine beaches, water sports, good food and nightly entertainment. There are family bures on the beach, with two interconnecting rooms which can accommodate up to eight people, so they’re just perfect for us!
We’ve also heard some great feedback about Castaway Island and hope to check it out for ourselves sometime soon. For excellent snorkeling, Mana island is a good choice, although it’s quite a lot bigger than Treasure Island so you lose some of the intimate, small island appeal.
If you like the idea of taking in a few different islands, then a cruise might appeal to you. I thoroughly recommend Blue Lagoon Cruises which take you on a journey through the Mamanucas and farther-flung Yasawa islands. Sailing for just a short while each day, you spend most of your time exploring uninhabited tropical islands and relaxing on jaw-droppingly beautiful beaches. You also get to visit remote island villages and enjoy impressive feasts served up by the remarkably friendly crew. For a few days, you're transported to a whole other world and totally lose yourself in the dreamy South Pacific vibe.
Lastly, If you have any time to spend in Nadi before your flight home, do stop at LC’s Chinese Restaurant…we’ve never taken a guest there who hasn’t declared it to be the best Chinese food they’ve ever tasted!
Fiji’s an amazing, unique country full of sun, sea, sand and smiles. Just writing this blog post makes me want to get on the next plane out there! So if you get the opportunity to go, don’t miss it!